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when we see a shoe with a wedge-shaped shape, we typically think of the rocksport cinty, but the scarpa stealth pro is its slightly more comfortable and versatile sibling. like the rocksport, the stealth pro is a cross between a traditional climbing shoe and a slipper, but the stealth pro provides more ankle support and is thus more stable and powerful. the stealth pro is all about mixed-terrain climbing, with a wide, flexible toe box and a relatively open, neutral design that adapts to flat, slab, and crack climbing. the stealth pro is a great all-around, but if you need more ankle support, try the rocksport cinty. if you need more stability, try a shoe with a little more edging power (like the scarpa instinct vsr) or go with a larger-volume shoe.
most of the shoes in this guide are fairly light, but the scarpa instinct vsr is another example of a shoe that manages to lighten up without compromising too much in terms of performance. the instinct vsr is a great all-rounder, offering a stiffer, edgier feel for harder or more vertical routes. the soft, wide toe box keeps the shoe incredibly comfortable, but the instinct vsr does have a slightly lower volume than the scarpa vapor v, making it a bit better for bouldering.
if youre looking for a more traditional, smoother, rounded-toe shoe, check out the scarpa vapor v. the scarpa vapors light weight, cushy, soft leather offers a good amount of comfort, but the stiff, flat-last design is powerful and stable enough for serious bouldering. the good-fitting, velcro-gusseted tongue, like the scarpa vapors, allows you to customize your fit. this is a great shoe for all-day, multi-pitch rock climbs.
Best for: 5.10 and slightly-steeper trad routes, with a focus on finger-cracking and stemming. The stiffest of all the shoes, featuring aggressive downturns, substantial ankle protection, minimal forefoot cushioning, and tough rubber toe cap. These shoes are the best for hanging on vertical slab roofs, but not recommended for much else.
Best for: All-day climbing on loose, wet, or slopey leads, and well-worn feet. These are comfortable and forgiving shoes, perfect for beginners. Look for a model with minimal cutout, a flexible collar, minimal downturn, and moderate to high collar stiffness. Once youre comfortable, you can graduate to shoes with more ankle protection, less downturn, and more toe-crushing toe-rubber.
Best for: All-day bouldering with a smattering of trad climbing, mostly on slopey routes. These are comfortable and forgiving shoes, and for trad climbers, the hybrid style is great for trad climbing: the felsport offers more ankle support than technical roadie, while keeping climbing awesome.
For traditionalist looking for a durable climbing shoe, the rope-like Ultralite from Tenille EverMyst is a fantastic pick. Stylish, low-key, and really durable, the Ultralite is a favorite among hardcore trad climbers for its high quality. If you think the rock climbing Ultralite-lite is as great as it sounds, theres the Ever Mystre version, which is just plain sexy. If you dont fall for the cult of Ultralite, the Five Ten Rogue Traditional is a hard-hitter ready to take on any terrain.
Asym footwear are designed to be highly adjustable. The Defy is a full-grain leather shoe with a soft, supple insole, and contoured heel cup that allow you to fit the heel cup to your foot for the most support for your foot and ankle. It can be easily taken in or out for a good fit as well, which is what makes it great for new climbers.
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